Trip report: Ozark Trail, Middle Fork section

Last weekend a friend and I took our 7th-graders on a 2-night trip on the Ozark Trail--23 miles total on the Ozark Trail Middle Fork section from Hwy J trailhead to Hwy DD/32 trailhead.

There was much beautifulness and I confirmed that my oldest is an awesome hiker. No complaining all weekend.

Day 1: Hwy J trailhead to Little Creek, 5.5 miles
The heat was brutal on Saturday. We hoped to make it to Gunstock Hollow but we were going just over a mile an hour with stops.

This snake was stretched out across the trail when we came upon it not long into our hike on Saturday. He moved out of the way pretty quickly and then encouraged us to move along.

Crossing Strother Creek.

We left the trailhead at 12:30 and trudged along for almost five hours. On the way we passed Strother Creek; the maps recommend not drinking from this water source because it's downstream from a lead tailings pond. It was the highest creek we crossed and might have been difficult if water was high.

We were drenched in sweat and about to collapse when we got to Little Creek, but the established campsite was already taken, so we had to improvise and create our own up on the bluff. This wasn't too bad, all things considered. We were still close to the creek and up a bit on the bluff, so we didn't have to worry about flash flood if the rain got crazy.

Day 2: Little Creek to Wolf Pen Hollow Waterfall, 10.5 miles
We had some rain Sunday morning but it was just a drizzle by the time we woke up and it was done before we set out for the day at 9 a.m. The cooler temps were a huge relief.

The hiking for the day was more of the same--up and down, cross a stream, pines and hardwoods. It was a day for appreciating the large variety of environments--mix hardwoods, some pines, and several low streams to cross. The changing colors made it even more special.

With the temps 25 degrees lower than Saturday, we made good time. We stopped at Henderson Creek just before the bridge at an established campsite and cooked spaghetti for lunch. I took care of an emerging blister and we had a restful hour or so before the last easy three miles to the falls.

Since there has been so little rain in recent weeks, the falls were not super-impressive. Our camp site was lovely, but had one problem -- it was too close to the highway and we heard a lot of traffic noise.

Wolf Pen Hollow Waterfall

Day 3: Wolf Pen Hollow Waterfall to Hwy DD trailhead, 6.5 miles
It was chilly but dry when we woke up Sunday morning. We left again by 9 a.m. and had a relatively easy day. The finish was a long but gradual uphill but we felt great at the end.

In retrospect, it might have been better to take this hike in the opposite direction, especially given the heat on Saturday.

Why I Love Bob Costas

After discussing my weirdest celebrity crush at book club, writing group and the family reunion, I decided to try to help those struggling to understand my deep and abiding affection for Robert Quinlan Costas.

While there is not documented evidence, it's fair to say this started on June 23, 1984: The Sandberg Game. One of the biggest moments of the Cubs' division championship year. I was 8 years old. Look at this face!!

How does a young, impressionable girl not fall in love with that face while high from the victory of her favorite team??

You may be wondering why my love for Bob has been strong for 30-plus years. Well, I'll tell you.

Bob is smart. I mean, he wrote a book and it was utterly brilliant.

Bob is funny. See "Pootie Tang," "Baseketball," and various cameos and appearances on sitcoms and talk shows.

Bob does not pull punches or back down from controversy; see his comments on Kapernick, guns, OJ, etc.

Bob does serious journalism. See his Sandusky interview and his long run as an interviewer on his own shows, and guest hosting Larry King's show.

He's not afraid to take chances in the fashion department:

AND HE LOOKS FANTASTIC

Bob is fun-loving and does not take himself too seriously.

Also, look at this face! He's 62 years old and adorable as can be.

Bob in 2016. Yes, he's probably had some botox but who cares. I personally know lots of people who have, and the guy's on TV! You'd do it, too.

Black Hills trailer trip

I’ve had a request for the itinerary of our South Dakota trip, so here we go…

Day 1: Driving

We drove just under 500 miles on Interstates 70 and 29 to a KOA in Onawa, Iowa. The drive was tremendously dull, but not as bad as Kansas.

Day 2: More driving, and Free Ice Water

We got back on I-29 and made it to Wall Drug just before dinner time. Basically, you have to stop at Wall Drug (you do not, however, have to stop at the Corn Palace). 

We spent an hour or so browsing this overblown gift shop and the surrounding shops in all their cheesy glory. Then we had dinner and headed to our campsite in Hill City.

Day 3: Giant sculptures

Our campsite lay smack in the middle of a 109-mile-long rails-to-trails project called the Mickleson Trail. It’s much like the Katy trail: wide and level with packed gravel surface. And SO beautiful. I got my morning exercise by riding several miles on my folding bike and then we headed to Mt. Rushmore.

My family visited Mr. Rushmore and the Black Hills three times when I was a kid and so I was excited to show everything to Nathan and our kids. The main difference at Mt. Rushmore in the years since I’d visited was a trail that gets you much closer to the sculpture. Now you get to walk right up to the edge of that talus pile below the heads. The boys seemed pretty impressed.

Next we visited Crazy Horse, which has been a work in progress since the 50s. From a distance, little has changed since I was there as a kid. Apparently they finished the face, but it’s hard to tell since the visitor’s center is a mile away. 

We watched a movie about the guy who started the project, and the several of his 10 kids who are trying to finish it solely with private donations. It’s a fairly interesting story: Gutzon Borglum, the guy who did Mt. Rushmore, supposedly wanted to put an Indian Chief or two on Mt. Rushmore, since it’s on their sacred land and all. Congress was paying for the Rushmore project and wouldn’t go for it.  Korczak Ziolkowski was working for Borglum on Mt. Rushmore and met a tribal leader and decided to start another giant sculpture a few miles away. It’s ambitious, to say the least. The whole thing will be pretty impressive if they ever finish.

Day 4: Deadwood

Nathan was eager to visit the town of Deadwood since he loved the HBO show. I hadn’t been there in my youth, probably because my mom thought it was unsavory or something, even though we were there after they kicked out all the brothels and before they started putting in casinos. Anyway, we took a bus tour and learned all kinds of cool stuff about Wild Bill, Calamity Jane, et al. 

I had not known that Al Swearengen was a real person! (I didn’t see the show when it was on, but I watched the first couple episodes in advance of this trip.) Once you’ve taken the tour (which includes a trip up the hill to the cemetery where Wild Bill and Calamity Jane are buried, offering a great view of the town), the only other activities are shopping and gambling (they legalized gambling in 1989, when a drop in the price of gold made the local mines much less profitable). So there isn’t much for kids. But we all enjoyed the tour and some souvenir shopping.

After Deadwood we went to Bear Country USA, a tourist trap if there ever was one. There are billboards all over the place for it, and you can see baby bears frolicking in their enclosure as you drive by on the highway! It’s a drive-through wildlife park. We had some mixed feelings about it, since there were so many bears (at least 50) in a small area. You drive through and see elk, bison, mountain goats, a white wolf, and then lots and lots of black bears. Which was great, but it was 95 degrees and we wondered how good this environment was for them. 

After you drive through, you see a grizzly and then some black bear cubs (and some other baby animals, but who cares, there are bear cubs, people) frolicking nonstop. It seems all they do all day is play fight. It is insanely adorable.

Insanely adorable child and grizzly.

Day 5: Custer State Park

Just about everyone thought this was their favorite day. We started with a hike on the Sunday Gulch Trail. As we paid our entrance fee, the ranger told us his was a hard hike and to bring lots of water. I nodded and smiled and thought “it’s less than three miles, and I’m a professional hiker!” It turns out this was the hardest and most beautiful sub-five-mile hike I’ve ever done. You start going down into this ravine scrambling over boulders. They’ve installed hand rails, because otherwise this would be impossible. 

You descend between needles, formations the park is famous for. Down, down down. And down some more. It really was the most beautiful setting. Very Sierra-like, but with these crazy rock formations. It was breathtaking. That was the first mile or so. There’s a gorgeous forest and more views of needles. Just stunning every step. Then you start a more gradual but still strenuous ascent. Right around then we ran out of water. Oops! 24oz per person was not enough. But the boys kept a good attitude, mostly because I told them they could have all the pop they wanted at both lunch and dinner if they didn’t complain. Helen walked most of the way, only being carried over the sketchy parts by my incredibly strong husband. By the time we got back to the car, I couldn’t decide if I was more excited to get my sore feet out of my boots or finally have some water.

Next we got lunch (buffalo stew: YUM), headed to the visitor center (some cool exhibits and good info from the rangers) and then started our drive on the Wildlife Loop. We saw a ridiculous number of buffalo. Those videos you’ve seen of buffalo coming up to people’s cars? Yeah, that’s where this happens. 

It was incredible. Gorgeous landscapes and all these wildlife sightings. This has to be one of the top five or ten state parks in the country.

Day 6: Badlands

We hitched up the trailer and headed a hundred miles east to Badlands National Park. Our 9-year-old now has a new favorite national park. The place is unique because you are allowed to go off trail all you want and scramble over and around crazy rock formations. The pictures really don’t do it justice. We also did the scenic drive and then headed back to Wall for dinner.

Day 7: More Badlands and more driving

Noah was desperate to do more scrambling, so after we cleared out of the Badlands KOA, we drove to a trailhead and scrambled away. After about 15 minutes the insane wind was getting to me so I headed back to the car, but he took the whole 30 minutes we gave him. We drove off, still enjoying the views as we headed south. 

Just the night before, we decided to take a different route back to Iowa. Instead of staying on I-90, we took two-lane highways through South Dakota and Nebraska. This was because we couldn’t go over 60 mph with the trailer anyway, and whenever a semi blows past us at 75 the trailer whips all over the place. No fun. It was about 30 miles shorter and we think it took about the same amount of time because of the speed limits. And it was a much more scenic drive. The only downside was a dearth of bathrooms.

We stayed at the same KOA on our last night as we did on our first night—even getting the same site.

Day 8: So. Much. Driving.

Again with I-29 and I-70. 

We had zero mechanicals, probably because the rig is less than a year old. So, quite a bit different than the exciting trip we had several years ago in The Beast. We have two local (less than three hours) trips planned for this fall. Who knows where we'll take the Canyonero and Campy McTrailface after that?

I’ve had a request for the itinerary of our South Dakota trip, so here we go…

Day 1: Driving

We drove just under 500 miles on Interstates 70 and 29 to a KOA in Onawa, Iowa. The drive was tremendously dull, but not as bad as Kansas.

Day 2: More driving, and Free Ice Water

We got back on I-29 and made it to Wall Drug just before dinner time. Basically, you have to stop at Wall Drug (you do not, however, have to stop at the Corn Palace). 

We spent an hour or so browsing this overblown gift shop and the surrounding shops in all their cheesy glory. Then we had dinner and headed to our campsite in Hill City.

Day 3: Giant sculptures

Our campsite lay smack in the middle of a 109-mile-long rails-to-trails project called the Mickleson Trail. It’s much like the Katy trail: wide and level with packed gravel surface. And SO beautiful. I got my morning exercise by riding several miles on my folding bike and then we headed to Mt. Rushmore.

My family visited Mr. Rushmore and the Black Hills three times when I was a kid and so I was excited to show everything to Nathan and our kids. The main difference at Mt. Rushmore in the years since I’d visited was a trail that gets you much closer to the sculpture. Now you get to walk right up to the edge of that talus pile below the heads. The boys seemed pretty impressed.

Next we visited Crazy Horse, which has been a work in progress since the 50s. From a distance, little has changed since I was there as a kid. Apparently they finished the face, but it’s hard to tell since the visitor’s center is a mile away. 

We watched a movie about the guy who started the project, and the several of his 10 kids who are trying to finish it solely with private donations. It’s a fairly interesting story: Gutzon Borglum, the guy who did Mt. Rushmore, supposedly wanted to put an Indian Chief or two on Mt. Rushmore, since it’s on their sacred land and all. Congress was paying for the Rushmore project and wouldn’t go for it.  Korczak Ziolkowski was working for Borglum on Mt. Rushmore and met a tribal leader and decided to start another giant sculpture a few miles away. It’s ambitious, to say the least. The whole thing will be pretty impressive if they ever finish.

Day 4: Deadwood

Nathan was eager to visit the town of Deadwood since he loved the HBO show. I hadn’t been there in my youth, probably because my mom thought it was unsavory or something, even though we were there after they kicked out all the brothels and before they started putting in casinos. Anyway, we took a bus tour and learned all kinds of cool stuff about Wild Bill, Calamity Jane, et al. 

I had not known that Al Swearengen was a real person! (I didn’t see the show when it was on, but I watched the first couple episodes in advance of this trip.) Once you’ve taken the tour (which includes a trip up the hill to the cemetery where Wild Bill and Calamity Jane are buried, offering a great view of the town), the only other activities are shopping and gambling (they legalized gambling in 1989, when a drop in the price of gold made the local mines much less profitable). So there isn’t much for kids. But we all enjoyed the tour and some souvenir shopping.

After Deadwood we went to Bear Country USA, a tourist trap if there ever was one. There are billboards all over the place for it, and you can see baby bears frolicking in their enclosure as you drive by on the highway! It’s a drive-through wildlife park. We had some mixed feelings about it, since there were so many bears (at least 50) in a small area. You drive through and see elk, bison, mountain goats, a white wolf, and then lots and lots of black bears. Which was great, but it was 95 degrees and we wondered how good this environment was for them. 

After you drive through, you see a grizzly and then some black bear cubs (and some other baby animals, but who cares, there are bear cubs, people) frolicking nonstop. It seems all they do all day is play fight. It is insanely adorable.

Insanely adorable child and grizzly.

Day 5: Custer State Park

Just about everyone thought this was their favorite day. We started with a hike on the Sunday Gulch Trail. As we paid our entrance fee, the ranger told us his was a hard hike and to bring lots of water. I nodded and smiled and thought “it’s less than three miles, and I’m a professional hiker!” It turns out this was the hardest and most beautiful sub-five-mile hike I’ve ever done. You start going down into this ravine scrambling over boulders. They’ve installed hand rails, because otherwise this would be impossible. 

You descend between needles, formations the park is famous for. Down, down down. And down some more. It really was the most beautiful setting. Very Sierra-like, but with these crazy rock formations. It was breathtaking. That was the first mile or so. There’s a gorgeous forest and more views of needles. Just stunning every step. Then you start a more gradual but still strenuous ascent. Right around then we ran out of water. Oops! 24oz per person was not enough. But the boys kept a good attitude, mostly because I told them they could have all the pop they wanted at both lunch and dinner if they didn’t complain. Helen walked most of the way, only being carried over the sketchy parts by my incredibly strong husband. By the time we got back to the car, I couldn’t decide if I was more excited to get my sore feet out of my boots or finally have some water.

Next we got lunch (buffalo stew: YUM), headed to the visitor center (some cool exhibits and good info from the rangers) and then started our drive on the Wildlife Loop. We saw a ridiculous number of buffalo. Those videos you’ve seen of buffalo coming up to people’s cars? Yeah, that’s where this happens. 

It was incredible. Gorgeous landscapes and all these wildlife sightings. This has to be one of the top five or ten state parks in the country.

Day 6: Badlands

We hitched up the trailer and headed a hundred miles east to Badlands National Park. Our 9-year-old now has a new favorite national park. The place is unique because you are allowed to go off trail all you want and scramble over and around crazy rock formations. The pictures really don’t do it justice. We also did the scenic drive and then headed back to Wall for dinner.

Day 7: More Badlands and more driving

Noah was desperate to do more scrambling, so after we cleared out of the Badlands KOA, we drove to a trailhead and scrambled away. After about 15 minutes the insane wind was getting to me so I headed back to the car, but he took the whole 30 minutes we gave him. We drove off, still enjoying the views as we headed south. 

Just the night before, we decided to take a different route back to Iowa. Instead of staying on I-90, we took two-lane highways through South Dakota and Nebraska. This was because we couldn’t go over 60 mph with the trailer anyway, and whenever a semi blows past us at 75 the trailer whips all over the place. No fun. It was about 30 miles shorter and we think it took about the same amount of time because of the speed limits. And it was a much more scenic drive. The only downside was a dearth of bathrooms.

We stayed at the same KOA on our last night as we did on our first night—even getting the same site.

Day 8: So. Much. Driving.

Again with I-29 and I-70. 

We had zero mechanicals, probably because the rig is less than a year old. So, quite a bit different than the exciting trip we had several years ago in The Beast. We have two local (less than three hours) trips planned for this fall. Who knows where we'll take the Canyonero and Campy McTrailface after that?

Red Shack

Red Shack is hard to categorize. Apparently there was, at one time, something red and shack-like from which it got its name. But now it's in a store front in what I'm told is Dogtown. Or possibly Maplewood. At any rate, the establishment is bare bones but not unpleasant.




I got enchiladas. The sauce you see covering them is basically smoke in sauce form. The rice and beans are not super flavorful, but decent. My dining companion said his tacos were very good.

If you're in the neighborhood, this is fine place for quick-and-dirty Mexican, but I wouldn't go out of my way.

Chimichanga's

Chimichanga's Mexican is on south South Grand, south of Ted Drewes even!

I got a lunch special for $5.75: a taco with chicken, an enchilada with ground beef and refried beans. The salsa was good and the food was good. Not great, good. It hit the spot like a SpaceX rocket and the prices are right. I liked the atmosphere; it seemed like a fun neighborhood place.

I wouldn't go too far out of my way for Chimichanga's, but if you're in the 'hood it's a good bet.

Crystal Skull or Temple of Doom: Which is less bad?

In the seven-plus years since the fourth Indian Jones movie came out, I've steadfastly maintained that, while it's not good, as IJ movies go, it's not as bad as Temple of Doom. Going in, I wanted to like Crystal Skull. My hopes were incredibly high after such a long wait since Last Crusade. And it had Marion. MARION! I knew my hopes were higher than the movie could realistically meet, because I'd heard the bad buzz, and I knew all about the years of struggle over the script, and the insanity with Lucas insisting that there had to be aliens. So, being a grown-up(in some senses at least) I was able to bring my expectations down (I had a lot of practice doing this in my years as a Cubs fan). And I didn't hate it. I knew it wasn't great, but I enjoyed myself. I didn't mind Shia LaBeouf as much as most people seem to, and I was able to get on board with the weird alien crap.

Today I listened to this hour-plus podcast about the movie and all its plot holes and flaws. I'd never heard of this podcast before, but Stitcher brought it up in my recommended list, so I thought, what the hell. Basically, these podcasters (3-4 dudes and one woman) have problems with the overuse of CGI (a valid point), the implausible plot points (um, it's an Indiana Jones movie?) and the story elements that are brought up once and don't get any follow-up (another valid point). Yes, the movie has problems, but these folks are harder on it than it warrants.

In the final 10 minutes of the podcast they address Temple of Doom, noting that most people like it less than Raiders and Last Crusade but that it's not as bad as Crystal Skull. At least one of them says that people's complaints about it--the annoying and sexist female lead, primarily--are not that bad. The female lead, to the shock of no one, is my main beef, really. To go from one of the strongest female leads there is to this shrieking mess is just too much. Elsa was clearly one of the aspects of Last Crusade that made it so strong. So maybe it's a gender thing? Guys just don't care as much if the plot is inherently sexist. The second point of my why-one-and-three-are-superior theory is that Indy needs a worthy adversary, and Nazis are pretty great as adversaries go.

I tried to rewatch ToD a couple years ago, and I couldn't get past the first scene. But you know what? I'm open minded. I'm not afraid to have a long-held belief challenged. To that end, I will attempt to rewatch ToD yet again. I wonder if it will traumatize my 10-year-old or if I should wait until after he's in bed...

Las Palmas

Las Palmas has been around for a long time and now has three locations, including the one we went to on Washington Street downtown for lunch.

Service was a little slow considering there were only two or three other tables, but the waiter/host was friendly. Salsa was almost too smoky, but still decent. In the atmosphere category, the music was a god-awful mix of country, pop and hip hop. I'd take mariachis over this any day.

I got Lunch Special #1: a pork tamale and a chicken enchilada. The corn tortilla was very good, meat was tender and tasty and all the sauces were very good. The corn part of the tamale was a little bland.

Bottom line: It's all pretty standard fare, but well-executed standard fare. If I still lived in California and this were close to my house, I would would make it a regular lunch destination.

It will be interesting to try the Maplewood location, which is closer to my house.